Hair testing device



Feb. 3, 1953 5. GRANT 2,627,179

HAIR TESTING DEVICE Filed Feb. 24. 1949 INVENTOR. Samuel Grant BY W Z? Patented Feb. 3, 1953 HAIR TESTING DEVICE Samuel Grant, Chicago, Ill., assignor to Helene Curtis Industries, Inc., Chicago, 111., a. corporation of Illinois Application February 24, 1949, Serial No. 78,209

4 Claims. 1

The invention relates to a novel apparatus and means for determinin the time required for a given permanent hair waving solution to reduce human hair to a desired plasticstate.

The process of cold permanent waving of hair, as it is generally practiced, is to wind strands of hair on suitable curler rods and subsequently saturate said strands with hair waving solution. The hair waving solution acts on the hair to reduce it to a plastic condition. When the solution has remained on the hair for a length of time previously determined to be necessary to produce the desired plastic condition, a neutralizing solution is applied to arrest action of the hair waving solution. It is important not to allow the hair waving solution to remain on a head of hair for too long or for too short a period of time.

Owing to the inherent differences in the structure of human hair, it has been an exceedingly diificult problem to determine, accurately, the length of time the hair waving solution is to remain on the hair to reduce it to such a condition as will insure its remaining in its curled state after the hair waving solution has been neutralized and the hair dried. This difiiculty arises because a single strength hair waving solution is provided for use on all kinds of hair and only the duration of the application is varied. Prior to the present invention, the processing time has been by guesswork. As a result, the hair frequently is over or under processed. Because the duration of treatment with a given hair waving solution is very critical, it is one of the objects of the present invention to provide an apparatus for determining this critical period.

The use of the apparatus of the present invention enables a beauty operator, using a single grade of hair wavingsolutionfor all kinds of hair,- to determine accurately the length of time the solution should be allowed to remain on a given head of hair. The present apparatus is used by the beauty operator, prior to the processing of the hair on the head, to determine how long it takes-for the hair waving solution to reduce a specimen of that hair from its normal or natural condition to that wherein the hair becomes sufficiently plastic to require the application of the neutralizing solution.

It is, therefore, another object of the invention to provide a novel hair testing apparatus which includes a container for holding a hair waving solution and wherein a shaft or shafts of human hair, selected from the head of the patron who is to receive the permanent wave, is immersed under tension in the solution and, more particularly, to provide a novel arrangement for determining when the solution has reduced the specimen strand of hair to such a degree of plasticity as to allow it to stretch a predetermined distance. The time required to reduce the hair to such a plastic state as to enable it to stretch a predetermined amount determines the correct time interval which should elapse before the neutralizing solution is applied. The time required for plasticizing the specimen of the patrons hair to the critical point is carefully noted by the beauty operator and clocking of this time period is an important step in the use of the device of the present invention.

Other and further objects of the present invention will be apparent from the following description and claims and are illustrated in the accompanying drawing, which by way of illustration shows one embodiment and the principle thereof. Other embodiments of the invention embodying the same principle may be used and structural changes may be made as desired by those skilled in the art without departing from the present invention and the purview of the appended claims.

The figure in'the accompanying drawing represents a front elevational view of the apparatus while in use, partly broken away to show parts in section.

Referring specifically to the disclosure in the drawing, the apparatus includes a horizontal support II suitably apertured to receive therethrough a tubular fitting I2. The fitting is secured in the opening as by means of a washer I3 and nut M threaded upon the upwardly projecting end thereof and a nut I 5 threaded upon said fitting below the support II. A clamp bracket I6 is firmly mounted about the tubular fitting I 2 between the support II and nut I5. This bracket includes a plurality of downwardly extending spring fingers I! normally drawn into a contracted relationship by means of a coil spring l8, or other means, surrounding the free end portions of said fingers. The spring fingers I! are adapted to receive and firmly embrace the upper end of a test tube I9, or like container, when the latter is thrust upwardly through an opening 2| in a guide plate 22 spaced below the support I I. The test tube I9 is adapted to contain some ofthe hair waving solution to be used on the patrons hair and is so mounted as to be readily withdrawn from the spring fingers II.

A rod 23 extends freely through the axial opening 24in the tubular fitting I2. This rod depends below the bottom end of the tubular fitting and, as shown, carries on its reducedlower end a spring clamp which may be of any conventional construction but preferably is of a type having matching portions between which an object may be engaged and firmly retained.

The lower end of the tubular fitting I2 is formed with a reduced diameter 26 which provides a mounting for a second spring clamp 21 which may be constructed substantially like the clamp 25. The clamps 25 and 2! are therefore movable relative to each other, vertically, in such manner that the distance between said clamps may be varied.

The rod 23 extends upwardly beyond the upper end of the tubular fitting l2 and is provided on its upper end preferably with a flange 28. A vertical wall 29, which may constitute one wall of a housing supported by the horizontal support H, extends upwardly from said support and is provided in the region of the flange 23 with a transparent panel 31. The panel 3| afiords means whereby the flange 28 may be viewed.

To use the apparatus, a hair shaft 32 is removed by the-beauty operator from the head of hair to be waved and is clamped adjacent its ends in the clamps 25 and 21. At the time of clamping the hair shaft in place, the test tube I 9 is removed and the rod 23 is moved upwardly into substantially the position illustrated in full line.

If desired stop means may be provided to limit movement of the rod 23 upwardly. When so positioned its flange 28 is in registering alignment with an index marking 33 on the transparent panel 3 i. It should be obvious that with the hair shaft clamped firmly in clamps 25 and 27, said hair shaft is tensioned under the weight of the clamp 25 and rod 23. The weight of the rodzt and its clamp 25 is critically calibrated and it preferably weighs two and one-half grams. This constitutes enough weight to maintain the shaft of hair tensioned sufiiciently for the purpose of making the instant test.

The container l9, containing some of the same hair waving solution that is to be used on the head of hair to be waved, preferably'at a'temperature of 80 F., is replaced through the'guide opening 2! and is secured by the spring'fingers ll. When so positioned, the tensioned portion of the hair shaft is completely immersed in the solution. The solution begins immediately to act chemically on thehair shaft. Such action reduces the hair to aplastic state and, during the initial period of reduction, the weight of the rod 23 and clamp 25 causes the plasticized hair to stretch rather slowly. However, the rate of reduction andstretching is accelerated considerably after the initial or preliminary stretching. When a plasticized strand hasstretched one-third itsoriginal leng.th,. it is sufiiciently plastic forthe purposes of cold permanent \vaving. Obviously, a. strand of fine 1 porous 'hair having a high degree of absorptivity will plasticize, and stretch in a much shorter time than a strand of coarse hair having a low' degree of absorptivity.

The time intervalelapsed betweenthe im'- mersion of a. specimenstrandof the hair in the hair waving solution and its becomingsuniciently plastic to stretch a predetermined distance in critical in the actual hair-waving operation. it is, therefore, essential thatthe-beauty operator beappraised of the time elapsed. This is facilitated by providing a second mark 34 on the transparent panel Hi. This mark is spaced from the mark 33 a distance corresponding to one-third during the processing time.

4 the initial length of the hair strand under tension.

It should be quite evident at this time that if the operator watches the panel 3| she is immediately informed when the hair strand has been reduced to the desired degree of plasticity, this being indicated by the lowering of the flange 28 into register with the lowermost marking 36. The time elapsed from the initial immersion of the strand in the hair waving solution and the positioning of the flange 28 at the mark 341 is clocked by the operator. This time interval is then used by the operator to determine the length of time during which the hair waving solution is to be allowed to remain on the curls on the head during the hair waving operation.

The wavingof the hair on the head preferably is accomplished substantially as follows:

The strands of hair on the head which are to be curled are first wound on curler rods. If desired, the strands may first be wetted with water orwith a slight amount ofhair waving solution. Initial wetting with a small amount of solution is not sufficient to chemically act onthe hair to any appreciable extent. wrapped on a curler rod, the operator then very thoroughly wets the curls with the hair waving solution. This application of the hair waving solution is very heavy and closely approximates the condition of saturation existing during the pro-testing of the hair strand in the apparatus described hereinabove.

The length of time a curl is subjected to the action of the hair waving-solution corresponds substantially to the period of time previously found to be satisfactory during the test conducted with the instant apparatus. 'For example, in cold wavinga cap is placed over the'wound curls This tends to raise the processing temperature about 10 above the testing temperature. As a result of his increased temperature, the processing time under certain conditions may be shortened somewhat. Thus, if the testing time at F. is from one to thirteen minutes, the actual time required at 'F. maybe substantially the same; whereas, should the testing time at 80 F. be nineteen minutes, the actual processing time at 90 F. may be but seventeen minutes. These time ranges and differentials may be furnished to the operator in the form of time charts supplied with the apparatus. At the end of the critical time period, determined by previous test and reference to the chart, the neutralizing solution is applied.

It should be apparent that the instant method of testing a specimen strand of hair'removed from the head of hair to be waved afiords means whereby the hair waving solution furnished to the beauty operator may be used withexcellent results onall-kindsan'dgrades of hair. For example, a test of fine hair having a high degree or absorptivity will establish that the solution need remain on the hair for a-shorter period of time than isre quired when coarsehair having a low degree of absorptivity is to be waved. It no longer becomesnecessaryfor. a beauty operator to guess as to the .quality of the hair by a' feel test. Such manner of testing is very unsatisfactory owing tofdifferences in' absorptivity and porosity present. in hair having substantially the same feel. Thus,, under. the present:method,.all guesswork is eliminated because. a-specimen. strand of hair removed from the headof hairto be processed is tested in the instant apparatus by being subjected'tothe reducing action of thesame After each curl is solution that is used in the process of actual waving of the hair on the head.

While the foregoing specification sets forth the apparatus of the invention in more or less specific terms, it should be understood that various changes may be made in the size, shape and kind of materials used in its construction, without departing from the spirit of the invention or the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In an apparatus useful for determining the time required to reduce a strand of hair removed from a head of hair to be permanent waved to such plastic state as to permit it to stretch a predetermined distance while it is immersed in the hair waving solution to be applied to said head of hair, the combination of, a fixed tubular element adapted to have one end portion of the hair strand secured thereto, a vertically movable element telescoped through the fixed tubular element and including a clamp located below said fixed element adapted to have the other end portion of said strand secured thereto while the element is in its uppermost position with the strand tensioned between said elements, a container for a hair waving solution, means to mount said container to immerse said tensioned strand in the hair waving solution, a gauge member carried on the upper end of the movable element, a transparent panel arranged in front of said gauge member, and a pair of gauge markings on said panel, said markings being spaced apart vertically a distance corresponding to the stretch desired so as to afford visual means to indicate when the desired plastic condition is attained.

2. An apparatus of the character described, comprising a container adapted to hold a hair Waving solution, a stationary element fitted over the top of said container, said element being tubular and having a clamp thereon, a rod depending into said container freely through the tubular element, and a clamp at the lower end of said rod, said clamps being adapted to be engaged with opposite end portions of a shaft of hair to hold said hair tensioned and immersed in said 4 solution.

3. An apparatus of the character described, comprising a container adapted to hold a hair waving solution, a stationary tubular element, spring fingers associated with said element to engage around the top of the container with the tubular element extending therein, a clamp on the lower end of said tubular element, a rod depending into said container freely through the tubular element, and a clamp at the lower end of said rod, said clamps being adapted to be engaged with opposite end portions of a shaft of hair to hold said hair tensioned and immersed in said solution.

4. An apparatus of the character described, comprising a container adapted to hold a hair waving solution, a stationary tubular element, spring fingers associated with said element to engage around the top of the container with the tubular element extending therein, said tubular element having a reduced outside diameter at its lower end, a clamp on the reduced diameter of said tubular element, a rod depending into said container freely through the tubular element, and a clamp at the lower end of said rod, said clamps being adapted to be engaged with opposite end portions of a shaft of hair to hold said hair tensioned and immersed in said solution.

SAMUEL GRANT REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 42,540 Sees Apr. 26 1864 1,917,597 Nessler July 11, 1933 2,121,423 Colbeth June 21, 1938 2,265,920 Maize Dec. 9, 1941 2,577,669 Wilson Dec. 4, 1951 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 400,983 Germany Aug. 22 1924 

